This weekend we went on an excursion. I met Justin downtown at 1:30 after his office closed (yes, his office closes at 1:30, but I must note that he rarely stops working so early!) so we could catch the Circumvesuviana to Sorrento for the weekend. We were in Sorrento within just over two hours of leaving home. We asked a couple nice women on the train for restaurant recommendations in Sorrento, but they just argued with each other about it and never actually supplied us with any ideas.
We were starving by the time we arrived, so we dropped our bags off at the hotel and stopped at Da Franco, a local pizzeria. Afterward, we went in search of the elusive delizie al limone.
We were starving by the time we arrived, so we dropped our bags off at the hotel and stopped at Da Franco, a local pizzeria. Afterward, we went in search of the elusive delizie al limone.
A little background: a delizie al limone is a delightful lemon cake pastry that we had heard very good things about. After our failed attempts to find one in Naples, Justin asked a lady at his office about it. He was told that they aren’t made in Naples and that you have to get them in Sorrento. I was heartbroken over the news. I love lemon things, and I wanted to try one…soon! A couple of days later, I spotted a lone delizie at a supermarket. We excitedly ate it, and we really enjoyed it. But when Justin told his friend at work what we had done, she sneered and made a disdainful “blech” sound. Apparently she was unimpressed at our finding one in Naples and was certain it was no good. We found a “real” delizie in Sorrento straightaway. It was delicious. Basically it’s layers of white cake and lemon cream all covered with a different kind of creamy frosting. YUM.
With our hunger momentarily abated, we wandered around Sorrento and poked our head into a few churches. The city is beautiful and fun to explore at night. Some of the city was shut down for the winter because high tourist season is over, but many little shops were still open. After a failed attempt to go to a restaurant that was closed for the season, we ended up in Justin’s version of heaven, Inn Bufalito. If Justin had his way, we would purchase and consume a ball of mozzarella di bufala every single day. At this restaurant, they make their own cheese with buffalo milk. We ordered an unexpectedly large platter of cheese containing buffalo ricotta, buffalo mozzarella, and buffalo pearls. It was fantastic.
With our hunger momentarily abated, we wandered around Sorrento and poked our head into a few churches. The city is beautiful and fun to explore at night. Some of the city was shut down for the winter because high tourist season is over, but many little shops were still open. After a failed attempt to go to a restaurant that was closed for the season, we ended up in Justin’s version of heaven, Inn Bufalito. If Justin had his way, we would purchase and consume a ball of mozzarella di bufala every single day. At this restaurant, they make their own cheese with buffalo milk. We ordered an unexpectedly large platter of cheese containing buffalo ricotta, buffalo mozzarella, and buffalo pearls. It was fantastic.
We turned in early so we could wake up early the next morning to hike the Sentiero degli Dei, or Path of the Gods. This hike is famous for great views of the Amalfi Coast. It is recommended that you start in Bomerano, close to Amalfi City and hike westward to Nocelle, situated above Positano. After eating our small hostel breakfast we grabbed some fruit and bread to eat for lunch and headed to the station to catch a bus to Amalfi where we would transfer to Bomerano. When we went to buy our ticket, we were informed that we would not be able to reach Amalfi by bus because the road was closed for the day. After a moment of deliberation, we decided to get as close as we could, which meant riding the bus to Positano. We surmised that we could start at the other end of the hike and do as much as we could before we had to catch the bus back.
He suggested that we could walk the stairs to Nocelle and it would take us about an hour.On the bus, it started raining. And then Noelle started screaming inconsolably. When we got to Positano, we found out from a helpful man that the next bus to Nocelle would come in two hours. We were a little crestfallen and seriously doubting our sanity and determination to hike considering the transportation issues, the rain and a potentially volatile baby. He suggested that we could walk the stairs to Nocelle and it would take us about an hour. For a moment, I thought he was being ridiculous. But then again, we had come all the way to Positano to do this hike, why not just climb the stairs and see how it goes?
He suggested that we could walk the stairs to Nocelle and it would take us about an hour.On the bus, it started raining. And then Noelle started screaming inconsolably. When we got to Positano, we found out from a helpful man that the next bus to Nocelle would come in two hours. We were a little crestfallen and seriously doubting our sanity and determination to hike considering the transportation issues, the rain and a potentially volatile baby. He suggested that we could walk the stairs to Nocelle and it would take us about an hour. For a moment, I thought he was being ridiculous. But then again, we had come all the way to Positano to do this hike, why not just climb the stairs and see how it goes?
It was still a little bit rainy when we reached the base of the stairs. There are 1,700 stairs that ascend from the road that runs through Positano to the small town of Nocelle where the hike begins. The stairs are mostly cement and stones and are in pretty good condition. Early in our climbing, our banana peels attracted a little cat. I don’t believe in feeding random animals non-native foods, so we rejected her advances. Then the cat started following us up the stairs. We were very amused (well, Justin was annoyed at first [he’s not a cat lover], but he ended up finding it entertaining). The cat gave up after making it about three-quarters of the way, which was unfortunate, because even I would’ve broken my “don’t feed stray animals rule” if she made it up all the stairs!
When we reached Nocelle, we were feeling triumphant. The rain had cleared and we had a spectacular view of the steep rocky coastline and the Mediterranean Sea. Nocelle was mostly closed up for the season, but you could tell it would be a happy, lively place in the summer and fall. We followed helpful home-crafted signs from the top of the stairs to the start of the Sentiero degli Dei. The path sits roughly 2000 feet above the water and offers spectacular panoramic views of the rugged coastline. The towering green hillsides are almost as breathtaking. We had been warned that the trail was not for those scared of heights, but I think you would have to have fairly acute acrophobia to be afraid of this trail.
When we reached Nocelle, we were feeling triumphant. The rain had cleared and we had a spectacular view of the steep rocky coastline and the Mediterranean Sea. Nocelle was mostly closed up for the season, but you could tell it would be a happy, lively place in the summer and fall. We followed helpful home-crafted signs from the top of the stairs to the start of the Sentiero degli Dei. The path sits roughly 2000 feet above the water and offers spectacular panoramic views of the rugged coastline. The towering green hillsides are almost as breathtaking. We had been warned that the trail was not for those scared of heights, but I think you would have to have fairly acute acrophobia to be afraid of this trail.
Since we started off going opposite of the recommended direction, we ran into a variety of kind people. One large group of Italians was picnicking along the trail. Upon seeing Noelle, they became very excited and started taking pictures. One lady in particular wanted to get pictures of her “beautiful American friends.” She arranged the three of us and had us smile for her camera. She thought it was amazing that we had brought our little infant on the trail with us. We exchanged Facebook information with her and another lady and now we have access to the pictures they took. Thank you, Dina and Karamella!
We thoroughly enjoyed our hike. I would suggest doing the trail one way if the access roads to both ends are open, however it was wonderful to extend our time on the trail by hiking both directions. Since we arrived in Naples, we have not been able to do much dedicated exercise. We walk everywhere, but I was skeptical that the walking I have been doing would sustain me on this adventure. By the time we got to the bottom of the stairs, we were pretty tired, but happy to have been able to enjoy the entire hike.
We stopped back in at Sorrento to pick up our bags and get some food. After a delightful dinner and celebratory gelato, we caught the train and returned home. It was a fantastic weekend getaway!
We thoroughly enjoyed our hike. I would suggest doing the trail one way if the access roads to both ends are open, however it was wonderful to extend our time on the trail by hiking both directions. Since we arrived in Naples, we have not been able to do much dedicated exercise. We walk everywhere, but I was skeptical that the walking I have been doing would sustain me on this adventure. By the time we got to the bottom of the stairs, we were pretty tired, but happy to have been able to enjoy the entire hike.
We stopped back in at Sorrento to pick up our bags and get some food. After a delightful dinner and celebratory gelato, we caught the train and returned home. It was a fantastic weekend getaway!